1. The Christmas tree should be placed away from your pet either in another room or cordoned off ( I once placed the tree inside of a baby playpen). The pine needles on a real tree an cause oral irritation, vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, trembling and posterior weakness. The fir tree oils can be  irritating to the mouth and stomach, causing excessive drooling or vomiting. The fir needles can cause GI irritation, vomiting, gastrointestinal obstruction or puncture. The plastic needles of an artificial tree can also cause oral irritation and the short wires can damage the intestines. Also the artificial material can release toxins.  The tinsel on the tree reflects light and can move easily which is very attractive to many animals.Once the tinsel is eaten, it can cause serious injury to your pet’s intestines as it twists and bunches up. The bright ornaments can be knocked off with a swish of a tail so  glass, aluminum and paper ornaments  should be placed higher up on the tree. An ornament  within your pets’ reach can be chewed and swallowed and the  broken pieces form sharp edges may cut your pet’s mouth, throat and intestines. They could also create a choking hazard.  The tree water may contain preservatives, pesticides, fertilizers and other agents, such as aspirin which may have harmful or deadly consequences for your animals (and children) who drink the water. Use ribbon, yarn or lightweight twine to hang your ornaments and not metal hooks which can be very dangerous.

2. Christmas lights that deck your trees, (both inside and outside), windows and even the candles on the table can all be dangerous for your pet.  Tongue lacerations and possible death can occur from electrical shock if your pet chews on an electrical cord. You should check your holiday lights for signs of fraying or chewing and use a grounded three-prong extension cord. Candles should be  placed in hard-to-reach spot so that your pets can not knock them over causing a fire or seriously burning your pet.  Fireplaces should have a fire guard.

3.Gifts, bows and ribbons  can cause a choking hazard and ultimately twist throughout the intestines which can lead to emergency surgery and even death. The gifts themselves could be dangerous for your pet if they tear open the package and start chewing or eating the gift.  Any gift that  has small parts that can cause a chocking hazard for children will also be a hazard to your pet. Batteries that are chewed and pierced can cause chemical burns and heavy metal poisoning, whose swallowed whole can cause an obstruction.

4. Many foods that we prepare for the holidays  are not good for your pets. Nuts, chocolate,  fatty meats and bones are all hazards to dogs and cats.

5. Other plants that are used during the holiday season can be dangerous. Holly branches can cause intense vomiting, diarrhea and depression. Mistletoe can cause significant vomiting and diarrhea, difficulty breathing, collapse, erratic behavior, hallucinations and death when ingested. Poinsettias can cause irritation to the mouth and stomach and sometimes vomiting.

6. Antifreeze (ethylene glycol) is a sweet- tasting very palatable poison. A very small quantity can cause serious kidney damage and can be fatal.

7. Your pets should have a warm, dry place to live during the winter months.

8. Keep the front door close until you know where your pet is to prevent them from darting out the door when visitors come.Also provide a place for your pet to go to get away from the visitors.

Please decorate safety and have a wonderful holiday.

 

With the holidays just around the corner and  the scare of store brought treats you may be wondering what to give your other family member, the one with the furry coat and runs around on four legs, as a special treat.     There are many fruits and vegetables that can be safety fed to your pet.                                    

Fruits:

Banana
Bananas contain protein, vitamin B6, dietary fiber, potassium, iron, vitamin C, folate, magnesium, vitamin A and more! They are tasty and make a great fresh or frozen treat!

Blueberries
These berries are  good for brain and eye health as they are full of nutrition, including vitamin K, manganese, vitamin C, dietary fiber, vitamin A, folate, phosphorus, calcium and potassium! These berries are antioxidant and have cancer fighting properties.

Strawberries
Strawberries are rich in vitamin C, vitamin A, vitamin K, folate, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium and more.  They make a healthy and tasty treat that is low in calories and high in taste and nutrition. Try them frozen!

Apples
Do NOT feed the core or seeds  because they contain arsenic but  the apple flesh is healthy, crunchy, low calorie and refreshing.  The apple is full of dietary fiber, vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin K, folate, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus and potassium! A few apple slices a day keeps the doctor and the veterinarian away!

Pears
Like the apple do not feed seeds/core.  Pears  flesh contain vitamin K, vitamin C, foliate, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus and potassium. A few pear slices make an excellent summer treat as they are light, low in calories and very refreshing.
Cranberries
Cranberries are known for helping to maintain a healthy urinary tract, they can help flush the kidneys and prevent urinary infections. Cranberries are rich in  antioxidants, vitamin A, B vitamins, vitamin C, vitamin K, calcium, phosphorus and potassium.
Watermelon
 Watermelon is full of vitamin A, vitamin K, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, selenium and water. 
Cantaloup
Cantaloup is full of vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin K, niacin, folate, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, selenium and omega fatty acids.  Cantaloup and watermelon are fun and refreshing snack for dogs that can  help rehydrate them on hot summer days.

Vegetables
Cooking (boiling, steaming or baking) or making a vegetable puree is the only way our dogs can derive good levels of nutrition from vegetables. Since dogs are carnivores and do not have the proper enzymes to digest vegetables, you need to cook or chop them very finely  to help “pre-digest” the vegetable matter for them so that nutrients are available for absorption into the body easily.

Sweet Potato
Boiled, mashed or cut into chucks the sweet potato is a highly nutritious vegetable full of beta carotene, vitamin A and vitamin E. Sweet potato is ideal in  for dogs that are sick or on a bland diet. The sweet potato helps bulk up food an add fiber, it can soothe the digestive system.
Carrots
Raw or boiled, carrots are an excellent snack full of beta carotene, carotenoids and vitamin A. When raw, they can help clean the teeth by acting as a crunchy chew for dogs to gnaw on. Raw frozen carrots help calm  a teething puppy. carrots in any form are known for improving red pigments in the fur.
Green Beans
Green beans are a healthy snack full of fiber, vitamin A, vitamin C, the B vitamins and minerals like iron, magnesium and calcium.  Crunchy when raw and excellent for bulking up food, green beans can be added to a dogs diet if they are notorious for always being hungry.
Pumpkin
Pumpkin is famous for being a digestive aid, it is rich in antioxidants, vitamins and minerals. Pumpkin can both aid constipation and help firm up diarrhea, it is perfect for soothing an upset stomach. Pumpkin can be used to improve red pigment in a dogs coat. Use pure pumpkin and not pumpkin pie filling.
Zucchini
Zucchini , best fed cooked, is full of fiber, vitamin A, vitamin C and vitamin B-6.  Zucchini is extremely popular in homemade dog food recipes for it’s B vitamins, low calorie count and fiber.
Cucumber
Cucumber is a refreshing, healthy (low calorie, low sugar) and crunchy vegetable dogs love. Just  cut into thick slices and freeze for a hydrating snack in the hot months.
Broccoli
 Broccoli can be steamed, baked or boiled, it can be served cooked in the food bowl or given as a crunchy snack. Either way it is loaded with vitamin C, vitamin A, potassium, iron, calcium, magnesium and vitamin B-6.
Cauliflower
Cauliflower can be fed just like broccoli, best steamed or boiled but it also makes a good crunchy snack. Cauliflower is full of fiber, potassium, vitamin C, vitamin B-6, calcium, magnesium and iron.
Celery
Celery is ideal for dogs who need a healthy, very low calorie and low sugar treat. Crunchy and delicious with a high water content, this is a perfect treat for dogs. While it is not as nutrient dense as other vegetables, it is a great source of potassium and fiber.

 

Why is it important to trim your dogs nail, especially since so many dogs hate to have this procedure done.  Trimming the nails helps reduces injuries such as claw and toe fractures, prevents ingrown curved nails, helps prevent partially torn off or split nails, and minimizes orthopedic problems that can result from poor claw positioning.

A good rule of thumb is to trim your dog’s nails if they touch the floor when he is standing. In general, most dogs will need a nail trim every month or two.  The front nails tend to grow faster that the rear nails, so you may only need to trim the rear nails every other time you do the front. A dog that spends a lot of time outside on rough  surfaces may never need his nails trimmed at all.

I started working with Shoes when she was only a puppy and she would let me play with her feet  but I did not  need to trim the nails.  She use to spend most of the time outside,  but now she is inside and her nails need trimmed once a month. When she first started “licking” across the hardwood floor I attempted to trim her nails. I had never had to trimmed the nails of any of our other dogs in the past so I was a bit scared and she knew it!  We ended up having the nails trimmed at the vet’s office during our regular visit.  Poor Shoes resisted the whole time but she came home with beautiful nails – for  about a month. I did not want her to have to repeat the “forced” trimming that accorded at the office  so I begin to desensitize  her to the trimmers and I studied up on nail trimming.  Since she  would let me play with her paws and nails I mainly had to get her used to the metal touching her paws. We  used the following routine and worked with one nail at a time and taking only a small amount off at a time followed by lots of treats.  We no longer  have to fight to get her nails trimmed  – it isn’t one of her favorite things to do,  but she knows she will get a special toy to play with  during and after the nails are trimmed.
Before you begin any procedure that you dog does not like (nail trimming, bathing,etc.) you need to be calm.  Your dog will detect any anxiety and react accordingly.  Start by making  your dog comfortable with you holding his paws and his nails before you attempt to cut the nails.  Whenever you are relaxing at home with your dog  cuddle up to him  and make a point of acting as if you are about to cut his nails.  Position him in the way he would normally be when you are cutting his nails, usually in a relaxed posture on his side. Practice turning him over so you can access the other paws, always praising him for getting you play with his paws and nails. A puppy is never too young to start having their nails  trimmed – so start this procedure at any age but the earlier the better.

Unless he is unusually stressed by this, you should continue play with his paws and nails to get him use to the sensation and associate it with a positive experience (treats, toys, attention).  After 10 days or so, when is completely comfortable with your actions, attempt to cut just one of his nails, remembering to praise him well.

A few general rules to follow:

1. Don’t let nails over grow. This will cause your dogs nails to curl and in severe cases ingrown into their skin and in worst cases into the flesh.
2. Don’t cut into the quick.  The quick is a small vein which is easy to see it white nails that runs through a dogs nail and if it is cut into, the nail will bleed and also give your dog a sharp pain.
3. Don’t attempt to cut your dogs nails unless you are  confident about doing it.  The  dog will sense if you are scared about doing the procedure and may not cooperate with you.
4. Don’t forget the dew claws.  Dew claws on the inner of the feet that are usually on the front feet, but some dogs also have them on their back feet.
5. Use the right stye of trimmers for you dog’s nails and make sure they are not dull.

There are  different styles of nail trimmer and you need to chose the right one for your dog’s nails.  Guillotine style- has an internal blade and a hole to line up the nail  and work best for small to medium size nails.  They are not ideal for very large or very small nails. Scissors style-work just like a pair of scissors but they have a curved blade to cut the round nail. These trimmers are only useful for smaller nails. Pliers style-  are similar  to the scissors style trimmers, but with more force they  resembles garden pruners. The small/medium size is great for small and medium size nails and the large size works well on all nail sizes except the very small nails which they can leave the ends frayed.

Other things to have on hand are:  Styptic Powder can stop the bleeding very quickly and it fairly easy to apply.if you don’t have styptic powder, try packing bit of corn starch or flour on the bleeding nail tip. It will also be helpful to have cotton balls, tissues or paper towels handy.  Metal Hand File or Power Rotary Tool: If your dog will tolerate it, (some do not like the sounds or vibrations) you can use one of these tools to smooth the rough edges after the nail is trimmed.

 

It is getting colder outside with each passing day, have you given any thought to how your dog is coping with the weather change?

If you have an indoor dog, he is use to the same indoor temperature that you are and will be cold when he goes outside.  Many dogs with heavy fur will be able to go out for bathroom breaks without any additional protection, but if you see him shaking then put a coat on him.  Dog booties may help him be more comfortable.and protect his feet from frostbite.

If your dog is outside all the time make sure that he has an insulated doghouse that is elevated off the ground. The doghouse should  have clean dry straw and blankets inside. No dog should be  kept outside if the temperature is twenty degrees or colder.

It is important to always have your dog on leash when out in the snow and ice -with everything covered they can quickly become lost.  Winter is when more dogs are lost  so also use a leash and ID tags on the collar. Always wipe his paws and stomach off when you return fro your walks. He can ingest salt, antifreeze or other potentially dangerous chemicals while licking his paws.  Clean between his toes because snow can become encrusted there and may lead to paw pads bleeding.

You should never leave your dog  alone in a car during cold weather.  A car can hold in the cold and causing the animal to freeze to death.

Adult dogs can handle the cold weather much better then a puppy.  It may be harder  to housebreak  a puppy during the winter.. so you may want to paper-train him inside.  A senior dog, sick dog and some breed types are  sensitive to the cold and should be taken outdoors only to relieve themselves.

You may need to  increase his supply of food  to keep him healthy. Also make sure that he has a good supply of clean water to drink.  No frozen or ice cold water.

Antifreeze is a lethal poison for dogs.  It has a pleasant taste  to animals and they will quickly lap it up.  Be sure to thoroughly clean up any spills from your vehicle, and consider using products that contain propylene glycol rather than ethylene glycol.

  Wither inside or outside make sure your pet has a warm place to sleep, off the floor and away from all drafts. A soft dog bed with a warm blanket or pillow is perfect for a cold winter day.

Also remember cold weather also means hunting season has arrived and Shoes is ready with her bright orange hunting coat.  The coat has her name  and phone number sewn on it and she is wearing her ID tags on her collar. The coat also has reflective stripes.

 

All dogs have them but how do you choose which type to buy and how many do you really need?  You should start your puppy out with a buckle type of collar. Pinch, chain, or choke collars should not be used until the puppy is at least 4 to 5 months old and only for training and only if needed. Not all dogs need these special collars, many dogs can be trained with a simple buckle type collar.

 Buckle collars or snap collars are good everyday collars for your pet.  They should be labeled with Identification tags in case  your pet gets away from you or escapes from their enclosed area. It is important that you remove all collars  from your dog when you crate them especially if the crate is unsupervised because the buckle could become caught inside the crate. Also check the collar weekly to make sure that your puppy has not out grown the collar.

 Never use a pinch, choke, slip, chain, or head collar as an everyday collar, these  special collars are  to be used only for training or when you need additional control over your pet.

Shock collars for invisible fences should be  used only when your pet is inside  the contained area and set at the lowest setting that is needed, The should be checked daily to ensure that they are in good working order and the animals’ neck should be checked for any signs of distress ( worn hair, sores, etc.)  All animals contained within these fences should undergo a training period and not just put into the area without proper training.

 You really only need two proper fitting buckle/snap collars; however you will need many  size leashes.  A short (6 inch) leash is useful  to control your pet indoors , A six foot long leash is usually used for normal walking and stationing. A twenty foot leash is used for  teaching recall and for exercising in an area that isn’t fenced. 

Retractable leashes  are good  for some  if used correctly. They can allow for your dog to exercise in an open area and you will  not have to drag a twenty foot leash around; however they can be very dangerous if used wrong.  If you chose to use these always use the attached safety collar that is included with the leash. The leash should be attached to the regular buckle collar and the safety collar. These leashes produce a lot of friction and can cut both you and your pet quickly – so never get tangled in the leash and watch that your pet does not get tangled as well. These leashes can cut legs and remove fingers if used improperly, read the directions that come with the leash and practice all safety tips. Remember that these leashes are never loose they are always tight – which makes it impossible to walk on a “loose” leash.  I have used these  before,  but when using them I use the lock button while walking  which gives me control over the dog. The lock button allows us to walk with a “loose” ( the snap is down towards the ground). This allows for me to correct the animal with a quick little tug and release. I unlock the button and allow all twenty feet to play out and then re-lock the button when we reach the play area. This keeps the leash from always pulling the dog back towards me and again gives me more control over the  animal.

All collars and leashes need  to be properly cared for.  Nylon collars and leashes should be placed in a laundry bag ad washed on delicate cycle and allowed to air dry  along with the dog bedding. Leather  collar and leashes need  to be cleaned every few months with saddle soap and then oiled with either olive or neatsfoot oil. All leashes and collars should be hung after every walk and not left on the floor where they could be stepped on, tripped over, or chewed.

 

This weekend was rather busy and Shoes spent more time then usual in her large crate. She has two crates, a smaller one in the front room where she goes when we need her to be safe and confined for short periods of time and another much larger one located in her room where she goes to sleep overnight and when she needs to be confined for a longer time.

Why two crates and why confine at all?  The reason for two crates is because the smaller crate  fits into the front room whereas the larger one will not.  The smaller crate is much too small for long term confinement.  She has a large dog bed by the fireplace but there are times that she wants to feel safer or just doesn’t want to be “made over” this is when she heads for her crate. It is located in the front room because that is where everyone usually hangs out. She also goes there when send “Home”. This command is used when  ” non-dog loving” people come to visit, the phone rings, or we are eating in the front room and she is begging to much. I do a lot of crafts and she is sent to her crate when I work with anything that could be dangerous to her if she swallowed it.

The large crate  gives her plenty of room to turn around, curl up, stretch out ,  and walk around  without  knocking over her water bowl. This is located in a separate room  so that the TV and our different family schedules do not interfere with her  sleeping cycle.  She has a slight  case of separation anxiety and she feel safer when in her crate. When we leave the house, if given a choice of going outside in her yard or into the large crate – she chooses the  crate every time.  The crate gives  both her and myself peace of mind. I know she is safe inside  away from other animals (we are surrounded by woods), can not get out on the road, and can not get into my craft supplies, near my houseplants, by the snake enclosure or the fish tank. She feels safe and is comfortable in her crate – you can see her immediately relax as soon as she goes into the crate.  Like many dogs she dislikes thunderstorms – she runs around the house going from window to window until I  open the door to her large crate. She immediately goes in and curls up in the corner. This is followed shortly by loud snoring noises coming from the crate.

 Shoes recieved her heartworm medicine this morning and is asleep by my foot.  So the question that is on my mind today is: why do so many people give their pets heartworm medicine on the same day each month? When they can be given every 40 days without interupting the protection that they give your pet. The reason is that it is easier for a person to use the same date on the calendar to give the pill.

 It has been a long time since I have been on here. The presentation at Bartholomew County Public library  turned out well. I wish more people had attended but that was out of my control.

  I have been very busy with the dog training course and still have a few time slots opened. It is such a joy to see the progress that the dogs and owners are making.

 

 We all agree that a perfect dog does not just happen, it takes lots of love, work, training and patience.

 You train your dog everyday whenever you are with your dog - but there comes a time when you must teach them basic obedience. This is a big decision because there are many methods of training to chose from and you have to decide which method works  for you and your dog. Then you must decide if you are able to teach the dog yourself or if you need guidance. I have found that most owners and dogs do best with the help of a professional dog trainer, but which is best  group classes or individual sessions?

 Both have their advantages and disadvantages.

 Group classes will help socilize your animal and let you meet other pet owner's. You can see the problems that other people have and learn from their mistakes. Also they are general cheaper then private classes.

 Disadvantages are that you and your dog will have to travel to a central locations for the class, there may be aggresive dogs in the group, most groups reqiure that the dogs be vacinated and in good health but most do not ask to see vet proof so there is a chance that your dog will be exposed to fleas,etc. Also you are sharing time with other people so you may not get the attention that you need.

 Individual sessons are usually given in your home or at a private home. You and your dog will have the complete attention of the trainer during the whole lession and everyone will be more relaxed which means your dog will be able to concentrate on what is being taught and not what is happening around him.

 Disadvantage is that  private classes can be more expensive and they do not help much with socialization.

 Things have been happening around here very fast. Shoes had her vet appointment on June 21 and it want well. She did not like having the blood work done or her nails trimmed but over all things turned out well. The next day Doug left to go to Columbus , Ohio for another interview. He stayed almost all week looking for housing. He left to start his new job of July 1 and Bill & I  finished packing up his stuff. We spent the 4th of July moving his stuff to Ohio. It was a wonderful day for traveling and we got to spend time with all three of the boys and our wonderful daughter-in-law. I spent the next few days rearranging our house and shampooing carpets. On July 13 I was still debating if I should take Shoes to the presentation. Well after praying about it my gut feeling was to take her - I am so glad we did! There was a equipement failure and the staff could not get the powerpoint presentation to work. I had to use Shoes for all the demonstrations that were on the slides. We mannaged to present a good program but I felt bad that the people attending did not get to see the performane video beause there was no way to show field performance inside a small room. I am hopeing that tonight program will be better. I have been on the phone talking to the contact person and they know my needs and about he problems that we had at the other town's presentation. Wish us luck! and if you are near Columbus,In  come to the Public library at 7:00pm and watch the program. It free to the public and no personal dogs are allowed in the library.

 Like most people I know how important it is to get our dog's vaccinations but I also worry about them.  As many people know  we have changed vets because of what happened at our last vet visit and today was the first first with the vet. Shoes and I visited the office earlier to get weighed and to meet the people.

   I came prepare with a copy of all Shoes's past medical history and a list of questions for the vet.  First thing was getting her weight 82.6 pounds - better then last year and he said that as long as she doesn't start gaining she was okay. Unlike  our old vet he did everything  with us present in the room, ears checked, teeth checked, internal organs listened to , complete body exam where he felt over her, limbs checked, area of questioned checked. Then came the hard part turning her  onto her back to check her underside and tail area, followed by getting some blood for testing. Unlike Spot , Shoes doesn't give blood without a fight After two needles and many attempts to get some blood without getting anyone hurt  we finally got some blood. I think if they had hit the vein on the second attempt we would not have had so much trouble - but with her fur and the fact that it was hot and we were not prepared for her yanking back so quickly I was not surprised that it took more then one attempt. I am just glad the vet released the needle so that it didn't break when she jerked her paw back.

After that the rest of the shots were easy. She didn't like the nose spray and again yanked back but that was expected.

 Next came what I have been hoping to avoid- having her nails trimmed by someone else.  We discussed using a muzzle but he wanted to try first without one - with some good holds, treats and a skillful tech we never needed one. Until lately I have always been able to trim them. I have never cut them too short and they have never bled but lately she would  get up and walk away whenever I started to clip them.  She put up a fuss for the first back paw, she growled,snapped and tried to sit down; however, with three of us working to keep her in one place plus being tied up  we got it clipped. The second back paw was no trouble. I was hoping the front paws would be as easy as the second back paw - nope. Same thing with the front ones she put up a fuss on the first one and accepted the second one. Hopefully next month I will be able to clip them at home.  She didn't give us any trouble getting into the car to go home.

  Hopefully Shoes  will not have to visit their again until this time next year. I really liked this vet, he took the time to learn about Shoes and was patent with her. He never said that she was aggresive or that she was super overwight and he never hit her. He understood that she was scared of the needle, that her weight was stable and asked about her diet and approved it. Everything was done with me  watching and actually helping and no one hit her.. she was giving nothing but encouraging words, pets and love - plus lots of treats. Even the vet was asking for some of the treats to give her. I think we have a winner!

 Wow time has gone fast.I have been so busy with additional summer things ( cutting grass and gardening). We got the apartment finished this month and after one week of screening applicates it is rented. I have been busy working on a power point slide show for the book signing presentation and the speech that is to go with it. I have also been making crochet bowties and flower for the "yellow dog" project, I plan on making some bandannas and photo frames yet. I hope to have a variety of things to sell at the next presentation.

 I have been working with Shoes as usually, new commands that we are working on is " bring me your bowl" and "honk the horn". We are slowlly making process with her getting into my truck. For some reason  she no longer wants to get into the truck ( no probem with the car) - she will now put both front legs into the truck.

 

What is the best type of collar for your dog? Most dog wear a collar that includes ID information all the time. This collar is usually a buckle type collar which can be made of leather, nylon or other fiber. A "break away" collar should be used when the dog is not being supervised, but not for leash walking. For the safety of the dog - collars should be removed when the animal is crated, if possible. Harness, chain collars and prong collars shouldonly be used when actually training your dog. They should NEVER be left on an unsupervised dog.

 

 

 Do you have a problem with your puppy nipping and biting? How do you handle it?

 Here are a few things that have worked for me.

1. Exercise your pup. A tired pup is a good pup.

2. Teach bite inhibition. Play with your pup and when he starts to bite too hard, say "ow" and stop moving for at least 10 seconds then start playing again. Repeat as needed.

3. Have safe chew toys available.

4.Don't allow the pup to chew on non chewable items. Use a firm "No" and remove the non chewable item and replace  it with a chew toy.

5. Start obedience training.

  

 Yesterday was a sunny but cool day and today we have snow again.. I will be glad for spring to get here so that I can play outside without bundling up. Anyways  back to yesterday, I decided to take Shoes outside to play fetch so as I was getting my coat on I told Shoes to go get her ball. Which she did. Later that night when I was getting my coat on to take her for her nightly walk after she rung the door knob bells to tell me she needed to go out she then disappeared into the front room and came back with her ball.  Wonder has anyone seen lighted balls for dogs?

 

 Tired of fighting with my old vacuum. It is almost useless against pet hair. I have to go over the carpet at least three tiimes and still have to use a lint brush to get rid of the hair. The good thing is that with her new diet of home cooked breakfast with a little Nurtist and a full meal of Nurtist at night  she is no longer leaving a trail of hair; however Spring is coming and I would like to have the area clean before she blows her coat. After researching vacuums I decided to give the Shark Navagator with pet tools a try. It was on sale for $129 this week at Wal Mart. I already have the Shark steam mop and love the way it works or the hardwood and tile floors. The hand held portion could work better - but that's another story. The vacuum was easy to put together and with no bags there is no addition maintance cost. Test time on the front room carpet - after one pass of the room I had to empty the dust cap because it was filled with pet hair. I then want over the floor two more times before having to empty the cap again. Then I put the pet tool onto the hose and started on the furinture and her dog bed - one pass and all the pet hair was gone. Highly recommand this product.

I had noticed that Shoes was always hungry after eating  and even through I can just feel her ribs she always looked huge where she should be more shapely ( bloated ) and she always burped (in my face , of course) after every meal.I will not even mention the amount of shedding that was going on- you could not even pet her without having a handful of hair. So I was in the process of looking for a new dog food when I was told by a good friend that our then current food was not homegrown. Shoes has been on a "Made in the USA" food and a home cooked breakfast for a little over a week now and I can see major changes. Her coat is shiney again and thicker - I do not have to use the stick rollers on my clothes after petting her and the brush isn't covered in hair after brushing. She now has a waist again. However I can't say that she isn't looking for food  - she no longer goes around hunting for food now she picks up her bowl and brings it to me. It's like "that's was good - More please." LOL She only does this after breakfast which is her home cooked "people" food meal and when I am fixing my lunch ( she normally does not get fed at noon), never when I am fixing dinner and she knows she will be getting straight commerical dog food. Yes I drop a home cooked small treat in her bowl when she does this and say "bowl" - I see this as teaching a new trick!

 Today I am posting on a more serious note. A friend's pet dog was gunned down by a possible hunter this weekend. So please remember to keep an extra eye on your pets during all hunting seasons-

 Here is a list of Indiana's hunting seasons for 21012-2013.

 Thanksgiving is tomorrow and I have everything ready - all I have to do is cook and bake. I cheated this year and actually brought the pies, but the rest will be made at home. The house is as clean as it is going to get - I will sweep the floors and mop the kitchen after Shoes goes out to her yard in the morning and before I start the dinner. I am not fixing as much for dinner as in the past but it will be enough because the main idea of Thansgiving is not over stuffing your body but being with your family.

 Have you given your dog their heartworm medicine this month? I set my cell phone alarm to remind me to give it to her. How do you remember? Leave comments in the comment box on the home page.  Also be aware that all comments left are subject to being used  on this blog _ I will give you credit for any item used.